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  • Writer's pictureErik H. Larson

A Surprise Vertical, Which Left Me Horizontal.

Occasionally I take the time to sort through my wine rack. It's similar to working out: I really should do it more often and I end up feeling better afterwards, but life and other priorities (excuses) seem to get in the way.



In today's edition of "wine rack roulette" I discovered I was in possession of a 2017 and a 2018 Clarksburg, California Pinot Grigio crafted by Karen Birmingham. A perfect opportunity for a brisk and refreshing vertical!


The labels are two slightly different styles (as you can see above) which is why I was surprised, while sorting through my stack of wine, to learn they were the same varietal, just a year apart.


This is where being a member of NakedWines.com is fantastic! If I regularly purchase wine from a grocery store it's entirely too easy to end up with a bottle made by a corporation and lose out on the independent nuances and growth of not only a wine but a winemaker. Purchasing wine from a massive conglomerate doesn't feel like drinking the wine of a craftsman, it feels like drinking the wine a company paid a bunch of people to make for as little money as possible.

Not only has NakedWines.com given me the ability to learn about and come to "know" each of the winemakers, but I then have the opportunity to pick through and purchase these global offerings at a discount year after year, providing a seriously regular guy like me with the chance to have multiple vintages of award-winning wine on my shelf. And I can do stuff like this!


Hopefully, if the stars align, I'll soon be lining up every varietal and vintage Mr. Ken Deis has crafted for NakedWines.com. But I digress...


As I said before, I was pleased and likely visibly excited to find these two bottles, get them properly chilled and sit down for a weekend afternoon of tasting with my better half, Heather.


We started with the 2017... age before beauty, right?


2017, The Review: 4/5


A dash of floral and plenty of fruit right out the front gate.


The nose has a bit of crystalline honey as well as some unripe pear. There’s also something along the lines of a wet river rock from the banks of an icy stream. Maaaaybe a touch of wet oak? I can't quite place it.

 

The acidity seems to be low and sugars are on the perfect side. It truly blankets every inch of the palate as soon as you take a sip. The sensation is like drinking a much heavier, viscous fluid that somehow disperses into delicious wine that slides down your throat.

I'm not getting much citrus at the start, but the pear begins to turn more ripe and maybe into more of a peach on the tongue... okay... wait... now there might be just a touch of mandarin orange or orange peel. I didn’t notice it at first... huh. Taste BEFORE you write, Erik. Yeesh.


It really is superb, smooth and almost warming to the soul... that heavy blanket effect from earlier turning into a full-body sensation (mostly psychological, but still legitimate).


There is also just a hint of grass, like you would expect in a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. I don't typically enjoy grassy whites but in this instance it is so delicate it remains distant and won't get in the way of the rest of the lightly floral and fruity party.


Compared to the 2018: The level of floral/herb action is less than in the 2018, but the sugar in this 2017 is at a sweet spot (pun intended). An almost perfect balance that keeps the alcohol and acidity in check but doesn't try to be too flashy. Great Grigio.



2018, The Review: 3.5/5


This bottle is obviously a year younger, which isn't a lot of time, but there's definitely some subtle differences between this and the 2017.


A little perfume-ish and floral... seems to be a bit of jasmine and maybe honey suckle...? I'm also picking up a touch of lavender, almost herbes de provence.


It's as if a layer of floral sits on top of each sip like a spice rub on the skin of a prepped chicken. 


Low to mid acidity and a good amount of sugar but the balance is closer to 50/50 than the 2017. 


Pear is the first fruit that showed up, along with...wait for it...some really nice grape, somewhere between unripe and ripe.


It’s not overly complex but it's got a great mix of flavors that blend well, like a dynamic little sandwich filled with slices fruit, fresh flowers and herbs.


As the temp goes up the fruit turns to more of a ripe pear and a bit of raisin creeps in, one that’s on the juicier side. 

There’s an overall essence of a French Sauv Blanc or Semillon… it’s very clean and crisp with a touch of sophistication and provenance. I'm thinking, after tasting it alongside the 2017, it could benefit from another year on the shelf though.


Compared to the 2017: More floral and perfume-ish than the 2017. Not nearly as viscous with the perceived sugar levels coming in a bit lower while the fresh, summer garden scents respectfully compete to be the face of the wine.


The Breakdown:


The one year differential hasn't done a whole lot, but when you have them side by side you can tell how 365 extra days has settled this Pinot Grigio into it's "sweet spot" as I so succinctly put it (pause for applause).


They're both bright and refreshing, perfect for a warm day or an evening that features some cheese, chicken or fish. If you are a sweet or fruity wine lover these are both great choices but you'll likely enjoy the 2017 a bit more (or the 2018 a year from now). If you're a floral and fruit person, the 2018 appears to still be available (as of August 2019).



Now...after two bottles of wonderful white wine, I think it's time for a nap. You may need one as well after reading all this haha.



Fin.


 

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More Wine/Beer Articles


Clarksburg, CA Wiki


Pinot Grigio Wiki


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